Measuring sustainability and the challenges in doing so:

What makes a product sustainable?

As the world is changing and facing considerable challenges in 2020, buying sustainable products and services is higher on the agenda than ever before for most buyers and consumers.  However, sustainability is a highly contested concept that is often very difficult to define. Traditional conceptualisations of sustainability primarily focus on concerns of environmental sustainability such as greenhouse gas emissions and minimising environmental pollution. However, modern definitions tend to take a more holistic approach to conceptualising sustainability, oftentimes seeing it as being composed of three equally important components: environmental sustainability, economic sustainability and social sustainability. The diagram below shows how these three concepts interrelate and intersect:

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As the diagram makes clear, all three aspects must be present in order for a sustainable venture to be considered truly sustainable. If any of the three aspects are missing or not properly addressed by the initiative, the long-term viability of the venture must be called into question as the venture does not properly address all of the relevant concerns surrounding sustainability.

Measuring sustainability:

Now that we have established the main criteria that we can use to define something as sustainable, we can now try and formulate a way of determining whether something can be truly classed as sustainable. Below is a basic way of scoring sustainability that could be used across a range of sustainable ventures such as product launches, charity work and new business formulation:

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26- 30:           Highly Sustainable

21-25:             Sustainable

16-20:             Fairly Sustainable

11-15:              Fairly Unsustainable

6-10:               Unsustainable

1-5:                  Highly Unsustainable

In this scale, scoring is divided between the three aspects discussed prior, with each aspect being worth 10 points, adding up to a final score of 30 points. Each aspect would be scored based off of how well it addresses all of the relevant criteria listed below it. Included is a basic way of interpreting how sustainable the venture is based off of the final score the venture receives. It is worth noting however that any venture that receives a score of under 5 for any of the three aspects can also be described as flawed due to the fact that it does not holistically address the three aspects of sustainability as presented earlier. Thus, even with an outstanding score in the other aspects any venture that is severely lacking in one aspect is flawed as a whole.

Applying the model to a real-life product:

The Swedish 100% Fairtrade brand Afroart’s use of Lokta paper is an interesting case study to apply this model to as it incorporates all three aspects of sustainability to some degree. In applying our model to this product category, we will split our analysis into environmental, economic and social sections before assessing the product as a whole.

Environmental:

1.     Lokta paper production is far less resource intensive than conventional paper production and has far lower greenhouse gas emissions. However, given Lokta can only be grown in the Himalayas any paper produced there will have to be exported and shipped to its end destination.

2.     Lokta is a naturally occurring and abundant bush native to the Nepali Himalayas that regrows fully within 5-7 years and is thus a renewable resource.

3.     Lokta paper production produces substantially less wastewater than conventional paper production and is unbleached using no chlorine, making it far less polluting than conventional paper production.

4.     Lokta paper production produces far less toxic waste than conventional paper production and thus produces less waste.

5.     Lokta paper production promotes the growth and sustainable maintenance of lokta bushes and thus helps to promote biodiversity in the Himalayas through maintaining the natural environment there.

As you can see, Lokta paper production is far more sustainable than conventional paper production, doing well in all five of the criteria. The only significant drawback to Lokta paper production is the fact that it can only be grown in Nepal which of course means that it’s export to the UK is lengthy and likely carbon intensive. However, conventional paper is typically produced in nations like China and the USA that are already located far from the UK. Therefore, a score of 9/10 is fair when considering this drawback to its production.

Economic:

1.     This first criteria is less relevant for business ventures and is more suited to evaluating charitable causes as businesses inherently exist to have some level of profitability. Thus, as is typical for any business, Afroart make a sustainable profit on their sales of products made with Lokta paper.

2.     Lokta paper is relatively financially resilient but given that purchasing lokta paper or lokta paper products depends on international trade and the ability to export and import freely, any change to the availability of international shipping, as seen during the coronavirus pandemic, can limit the ability to import lokta paper from Nepal. Equally, any political decisions such as imposing tariffs on exports and imports could also affect the financial resilience of purchasing lokta paper from Nepal. Equally, the lack of direct substitutions for lokta paper given it grows only in Nepal prevents firms from being able to switch providers from Nepali lokta producers and creates a dependency on their production.

3.     Lokta paper grows naturally and abundantly and is therefore viable as a long-term product.

Lokta paper is for the most part an economically sustainable product for Afroart as it produces sustainable profits for them, the key cornerstone of economic sustainability. There are however some relevant concerns over the financial resilience of Lokta paper production listed above but while numerous, they are all circumstantial and not especially likely apart from in exceptional circumstances. To this end, a score of 7/10 is fair when ranking the economic sustainability of Afroart’s lokta paper products.

 Social:

1.     Lokta paper production also reinforces the employment of local women in Nepali villages (Chaudhary, 2000) and helps to provide them with economic empowerment in their communities.

2.     Lokta paper production is a traditional process that provides employment for working class Nepalis in areas that otherwise would lack industry and plentiful employment opportunities, thus benefitting local communities through both providing employment and also through maintaining local traditions.

3.     As discussed, the production of lokta paper provides working class Nepalis with employment opportunities utilising traditional skills. This allows them to gain economic power and generate wealth while also preserving local cultural traditions and customs, one of the cornerstones of sustainable development.

4.     Afroart fully vet all suppliers that they work with to ensure that they have high quality labour standards and will often personally visit factories and suppliers to ensure this is the case.

5.     Afroart are committed to using suppliers that pay fair and equitable wages to their employees.

 It is clear that in terms of social sustainability, lokta paper is an exemplary product on all fronts. Thus, a score of 10/10 is fully merited.

Final Score:

Overall this leaves Afroart’s lokta paper products with a score of 26/30, indicating a highly sustainable product that only really falls short due to the fact that it can only be produced in Nepal and thus comes with a high dependence on the openness of the Nepali economy and a long distance for import.

Conclusion:

Broadening the approach that we take to sustainability is essential in order to properly address the growing issues the world faces and this scale provides a framework and tool that can be used towards this purpose. There are of course limitations for as to how this scale for measuring sustainability can be used but overall it is still a useful tool to use to grade how sustainable a product or initiative is in a holistic sense as indicated by the example provided.

Sources:

Chaudhary, R.P. (2000). ‘Forest conservation and environmental management in Nepal: a review’, Biodiversity and conservation, Vol. 9, pp. 1235-1260.

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-11/documents/2014_smmfactsheet_508.pdf

https://web.archive.org/web/20170303123311/https://www.epa.gov/trinationalanalysis/air-releases-industry-2015-tri-national-analysis

https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/environmental-workplace-health/reports-publications/environmental-contaminants/canadian-environmental-protection-act-priority-substances-list-assessment-report-effluents-pulp-mills-using-bleaching.html

 

Oeko-Tex - Confidence in Textiles

Today, many textile buyers keep sustainability and eco consciousness high on their agenda when choosing manufacturing partners for their collections.  However, there are a myriad of factors to take into consideration in order to make informed decisions in complex production cycles such as that of textiles. Himla’s linen and cotton fabric production is Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified to ensure that our retailers and end customers are guaranteed a product which has been manufactured with the safety of the environment in mind at the same time as it is safe for those who produce as well as for those who use the products.

Oeko-Tex is a trade mark that represents the certifications issued by the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology. These certifications ensure that the textile product is both human and ecologically safe throughout all stages of its production, from raw materials to end product. One of the key certifications offered by Oeko-Tex is Standard 100, developed in order to provide an internationally standardised benchmark for measuring the amounts of hazardous chemical that can be present in a fabric. It is now one of the largest such certifications worldwide. In order to gain Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, the fabric used in the making of a finished product must undergo rigorous testing to certify that it is both human and ecologically safe. Every thread, button and any other accessories in a garment or textile product has to have been tested for harmful substances to ensure it is safe in human and ecological terms in order to qualify as Oeko-Tex 100 certified. The tests are conducted by independent Oeko-Tex partners and include measurement of several hundred substances, both those with legal limits and those without that have been found to be harmful, as well as ensuring the fabrics have a skin-friendly pH and good colour fastness. As the development of new materials is fast moving, the criteria catalog is updated at least once a year and expanded as new scientific knowledge or statutory requirements emerge. As a result, certifications are valid for one year once issued and allow for consumers to check whether a product is genuinely Oeko-Tex approved using a label number found on the finished product.

Selecting an Oeko-Tex certified manufacturing partner will ensure the credibility of any retailer’s ecological strategy as it can be very difficult for buyers to keep up to date with the legal situation concerning harmful substances on an everyday basis. With certified Oeko-Tex Standard 100 textiles, the end customer can be sure that they are buying a product produced with minimal environment impact and with the health and wellbeing of humans and the planet in mind.

You can read more about Himla’s environmental production on  https://www.kvallsbris.co.uk/#/himla or www.himla.com.

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Lokta Paper - A Sustainable Form of Paper Production

Conventional paper production has significant and wide-ranging environmental impacts. As paper is a relatively cheap commodity with a highly mechanised production process, disposable paper is produced and consumed at very high rates worldwide, leading to large quantities of paper waste. These production processes and the waste generated from them have numerous environmental impacts. Paper production contributed 20% of the 690 million pounds of toxic waste released by industry into the air in the USA in 2015. Paper production also produces significant amounts of wastewater containing dissolved organic matter and nutrients that contribute to eutrophication, as well as heavy metal compounds like lead that are highly toxic. In Canada, paper production is the third largest source of aquatic lead emissions, highlighting the scale of this issue. Discarded paper and paperboards also account for 26% of the solid municipal waste generated in the USA that ends up in landfill each year. The use of chlorine in paper bleaching is also a significant issue due to the high toxicity of chlorine compounds. However, the use of chlorine has now largely been replaced with non-chlorine based bleaching techniques.

Alternatives and more sustainable production processes are constantly being investigated in order to alleviate the impact on the environment. Using and recycling paper can mitigate many of the impacts of paper disposal, but recycling paper has its own environmental and economic impacts and still consumes significant amounts of energy. There are some forms of paper made from unconventional sources that are more sustainable than conventional wood-pulp based paper. One such source is the lokta bush. The term lokta refers to two species of the Daphne genus of bushes that grow in southern Asia from Pakistan through to China. In Nepal, these bushes are harvested sustainably to produce lokta paper, or Nepali Kagaj, in a traditional handicraft process that has been in use for over a thousand years. These bushes are naturally abundant and grow very well in the Nepali Himalayan forests that are between 1600-4000m above sea level. The bark is first harvested before the bark is processed into paper pulp and is then produced into finished paper. This process is substantially better for the environment than conventional paper production as it utilises a naturally growing and underutilised plant native to Nepal, and harvested lokta bushes will automatically regenerate into 4-5m high bushes within 5-7 years. In addition, lokta paper production offers employment opportunities to rural women in Nepal and has considerable economic benefits for them due to its niche, high-quality market potential with an annual growth rate of 15%.

Swedish 100% Fair Trade design company Afroart use lokta paper in their range of cards, notebooks, garlands and Christmas decorations. The products are completely made by hand in Nepal from the bark of the Lokta bush  and the production creates important job opportunities in the region.  All products are made Fair Trade, which means that the producers are affiliated with the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO). View the Afroart collection here: https://www.kvallsbris.co.uk/#/afroart-1

Sources:

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-11/documents/2014_smmfactsheet_508.pdf

https://web.archive.org/web/20170303123311/https://www.epa.gov/trinationalanalysis/air-releases-industry-2015-tri-national-analysis

https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/environmental-workplace-health/reports-publications/environmental-contaminants/canadian-environmental-protection-act-priority-substances-list-assessment-report-effluents-pulp-mills-using-bleaching.html

Afroart Lokta Paper Garland “Vika” in production.

Afroart Lokta Paper Garland “Vika” in production.

What are Phthalates and why they should be avoided.

Many materials used in consumer goods are known to contain toxic compounds that are hazardous to your health. One such group of chemicals, phthalates, are used primarily to soften polyvinyl chloride (PVC) in order to increase its flexibility and longevity. Phthalate compounds are known to disrupt hormonal mechanisms and interfere with the body’s internal systems, particularly damaging the liver, kidneys, lungs and reproductive systems. Recent studies have linked phthalate exposure to sperm abnormalities and lowered sperm count, breast cancer, diabetes as well as insulin resistance and even the development of obesity, though larger scale studies are needed to corroborate these results. As the effects of phthalate exposure are cumulative and stack with exposure to other hormonal system disruptors, exposure to this toxic substance is particularly severe for young children and pregnant women, and thus phthalate containing plastics are highly hazardous for these vulnerable groups.

The use of potentially toxic chemicals is governed primarily by two regulations in the UK: REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) and RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive). Both aim to ensure that the use of the four most hazardous phthalates (DEHP, BBP, DBP and DIBP) are restricted in manufacturing goods to ensure they are as safe as possible for use and that their disposal does not contribute to environmental degradation through introducing toxic substances into the environment. All of Brita Sweden’s rugs meet both RoHS and REACH certifications and are phthalate free, using a polyester warp and a non-toxic recyclable PVC weft. The material is “food grade” making it completely safe for children to sit on and pets to sleep on.  Click here for more info: https://www.kvallsbris.co.uk/#/britasweden-1 

Sources: 

https://noharm-uscanada.org/issues/us-canada/phthalates-and-dehp

https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fhumupd%2Fdmt050

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2016.07.011

https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0114003

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2019.01.046

https://doi.org/10.1210/er.2009-0002

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Himla is a GOTS Certified Company

GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard and means that the cotton used in the product is organic. Organic cotton is grown without added chemicals, ie no chemical fertilisers or pesticides. The chemicals used in GOTS are of the milder kind but still of such a high quality that the finished product is colour fast and also recyclable. The working conditions at factories must be good and follow a certain standard when it comes to health and safety, equality, organisational structures and general working conditions.

Himla is GOTS certified as a company. Hope & Dreamtime bedlinen together with Maxime hand towels are produced in GOTS certified organic cotton. In the Autumn Winter 2020, all of Himla’s cotton products, including the signature range of bedlinen Soul, will be produced using GOTS certified organic cotton.

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